I’d done the wood chips on charcoal thing, and found it to impart a barely perceptible flavor, hardly worth the money. But then I discovered hardwood chunks, and that completely changed my grilling life.
Hardwood chunks are available at Wal-Mart and Lowe’s (and no doubt other places). Back in Indiana, Lowe’s carried apple and sometimes pear, in addition to mesquite and hickory. Mesquite and hickory are the only woods I’ve seen at Wal-Mart, here or there (and Lowe’s here only carries those two as well). I prefer mesquite (apple is my second favorite); I find hickory to be too intense and overpowering, but by all means, try it.
I find it silly to buy both a grill and a smoker. So I bought a grill I can use to either hot or cold smoke (actually, you can hot smoke on any grill), my Brinkman Professional. It cost me about a hundred bucks at Sam’s Club, and it’s the best grill I’ve ever owned. Here are the features you want in your grill:
- Double, side-by-side grills and firepans.
- Moveable firepans (the grills may also be moveable, but it is essential that you be able to move the firepans up and down, independently).
- Ventilation and thermometers for both sides.
- Heavy cast iron or steel grills.
- A mechanism for easy cleaning.
You need side-by-side grills with independently moving firepans for cold smoking, or when you are doing your whole dinner on the grill. The moveable firepans are important. You’re much less likely to burn yourself moving the firepan up and down (of course, this assumes there is a mechanism to do it) than you are moving a 500 degree grill up and down. You can also adjust the heat to some extent by moving the firepan up and down.
Ventilation is important to adjust the heat (many people don’t seem to realize that adjusting the heat is just as important on a grill as it is on a stove). The only thing my Brinkman doesn’t have is adjustable ventilation, but I adjust the heat by moving the firepans up and down, lifing the cover to allow heat to escape, and the amount of fuel I use. Other than that one thing, my Brinkman Professional is the perfect grill. The need for thermometers is, I feel, obvious.
A lot of grills have cheap metal grills. They won’t last, and you’ll end up replacing them. Get a grill with thick, heavy, cast iron or stainless steel grills. They’ll last as long as your grill, they’re easier to clean, and they do a better job of charring your food.
Few people think of cleaning the grill when they buy one — so when you shop for a grill, ask yourself how you’re going to get rid of the ashes. My Brinkman Professional has a drawer at the very bottom. All I have to do is pull it out, dump it, then slide it back in.
Now, on to smoking.
Hot Smoking
Hot smoking is basically using the grill as you would with charcoal, but using hardwood instead. Always keep the cover closed (but you should do that anyway to keep the grill hot, you know that, right?), just use hardwood instead of charcoal. Hot smoking gives you the char and consistency of grilled food, but a wonderful smoky flavor.
Hot smoke anything. Steaks, ribs, chops, chicken, hamburgers. If you can grill it, hot smoke it. And I promise that after you’ve done it the first time, you’ll never grill over charcoal again.
Cold Smoking
Cold smoking is a completely different cooking process from hot smoking. The food is not placed over direct heat, and the temperature should be always between 200 and 300 degrees. Cold smoking gives you a completely different result from hot smoking.
Cold smoked meat has a characteristic caramel color outside. It gives you very moist, juicy results, and a more intense smoky flavor than hot smoking. Cold smoking perfectly suits pork and chicken, both white, fairly bland meats that most of us prefer to be more or less done.
The thicker the cut of meat, the lower you want the temperature. This is because it will have to cook for a fairly long time to become permeated with smoke. If you cold smoke a pork loin, buy a single loin and not a tied double loin roast (that way, it will be half as thick). If you cold smoke chicken, flatten, halve or quarter it, or cold smoke chicken pieces.
I first remove the grill from the left side, where I light charcoal (I use charcoal to start the initial fire because here, hardwood is a bit more expensive than charcoal). You’ll need about twice as much charcoal as you’d use to grill, because you need the fire to burn for at least 2, if not 3 hours or more. While the charcoal is burning down, I place a cake pan of water on the firepan on the right side (where the fire is not); the roast (or whatever) will go on the grill above the water.
Oh. I almost forgot. My Brinkman Professional has a separator between the two grills that blocks the heat (and smoke). I remove this before I light the fire. Sorry about that.
I soak hardwood chunks in water while the coals are burning down. When the coals are grey, I drain the hardwood (make sure you do this completely — you don’t want excess water, because it will put out your fire). I place the pork roast on the grill above the water on the right side, then put the soaked hardwood chunks on the coals and close the lid.
Watch the thermometer on the right, or whatever side your meat is on. You don’t want the heat to go above 300 at the most, so adjust your vents accordingly (you can also move the fire down, which will descrease the heat somewhat). Every thirty minutes or so, check the grill; there should be smoke coming out of it. If not, add more soaked hardwood.
Now, by “smoke coming out of the grill,” I don’t necessarily mean huge clouds of smoke billowing out. That will happen if you don’t soak your hardwood, or when you’re hot smoking; wet hardwood gives off smoke over heat, but not mushroom clouds of it. You should see some smoke coming out of the grill. If you don’t, add more soaked hardwood.
There is no need to turn the meat because it’s cooking slowly, and not over direct heat. The lower the temperature, the smokier the final result will be. If your heat is around 200, check with a meat thermometer after three hours; if your heat is around 300, check after two hours. A pork loin should take about 2.5 hours at around 300.
The first time you do this, you will be amazed at the caramel colored exterior of your roast (or chicken). When you slice it, you will also be amazed at the rosy color inside and how juicy it is. Just wait till you taste it, though!
I would not cold smoke beef (the smoky flavor would be too intense). I would also not cold smoke fatty foods. Cold smoking lends itself best to lean foods that are otherwise difficult to cook thoroughly without drying them out, and because there is no direct heat, the fat will not cook off. I would not cold smoke goose or duck. Turkey cold smokes well.
Sausages also cold smoke well (despite the fact that they’re fatty). Cold smoke the sausages, then pierce them and grill them to melt off the fat. Or cold smoke them, then toss them in the refrigerator to grill and eat later.
Cold Smoked, Brined Pork Roast
Cold smoking gives you moist, juicy pork roast if you just toss the roast directly from the refrigerator onto the grill. But some years ago, I tried brining turkey, and was so impressed with the juicy results that I thought why not try it with cold smoking? The result, well, you’ll have to try it yourself, for the most delicious succulent pork roast imaginable. You can do the same with anything you’d cold smoke, like turkey (duh!) or chicken. Here’s the recipe:
Brine
1/2 cup kosher salt
1 T. molasses
2 T. brown sugar
2 quarts water, chicken stock, or vegetable stock
1/2 T. black peppercorns
1 stick cinnamon
2 t. allspice berries
2 quarts cold water
Mix everything but the cold water in a large pot and bring it to a boil. Take off the heat, cool, and refrigerate. When thoroughly cold, add the cold water. (Don’t be afraid of the large amount of salt; it won’t make your pork roast salty. Really, it won’t. Just don’t use iodized salt, or you’ll get a slightly chemical taste.)
Brining the pork roast
Place the pork roast in the bottom of a large pot and add the brine. Place in the refrigerator, and refrigerate overnight. Remove the pork roast when you’re ready to smoke it.
Cold smoke the pork roast using your favorite hardwood at as low a temperature (200 is best) as you can manage with your grill. Smoke should always be coming out of your grill. If it is not, add more soaked hardwood, but other than that, do not lift the grill cover. Check the temperature after 3 hours, if smoking close to 200, and 2 hours, if smoking close to 300. Remove roast when the internal temperature is 150, and let the roast rest at least a half hour before slicing (an hour or more is even better).
Side dish ideas: Roasted new potatoes with rosemary, grilled avocado halves (have you ever tried this?), grilled apple or pear slices, use your imagination.
Hot Smoked Guajillo Strip Steaks
I had this idea right before we moved here from Indiana, for a party I was giving (when the local supermarket had New York strip steaks on major sale). These are kind of like Mexican barbecued steaks — though there’s no “sweet” to the marinade. They are a bit spicy, but by no means hot. And they are seriously wonderful. This recipe is for six strip steaks.
Guajillo marinade
2 oz. (about a dozen) guajillos
boiling water
1 T. oil
1 t. each: ground cumin, ground black pepper, oregano
1 c. beef stock
1 T. vinegar (sherry vinegar if you have it)
Soak the guajillos in boiling water to cover for twenty to thirty minutes (but no longer than thirty minutes). Drain. When cool enough to handle, remove stems and as many seeds as you can, and drop the guajillos in the bottom of your food processor. Add about a cup of beef stock, and process until smooth (you may have to add a bit more stock; puree should be about the same consistency as heavy cream). Strain. (Yes, this is a pain, but guajillos are thick skinned chiles, and trust me, you don’t want to skip this; if you substitute a thinner skinned chile, like anchos, you can skip the straining.)
Heat the oil over high heat in a heavy pan. Add the strained puree. Yes, it will bubble and pop. Reduce the heat to medium, add the cumin, pepper and oregano, and stir it until it thickens and darkens. Remove from heat, add the vinegar, and cool to room temperature.
Prick all six strip steaks deeply all over on both sides, to allow the marinade to penetrate. Place two strip steaks in a sealable gallon plastic bag (doncha love those!), and repeat until all the steaks are in bags. Distribute the marinade among the three bags, smoosh it around so both sides are covered, and seal.
Put the bags in the refrigerator and refrigerate 4-6 hours. Do not marinate these longer, or the marinade will break the meat down, and give you mushy results. Remove the steaks from the bags, and shake off any excess marinade.
Build a hardwood fire in your grill (preferably mesquite). When the wood is burned down, grill the steaks with the cover closed, about three minutes per side for nice and rare. You’ll wonder why you haven’t been cooking steaks like this all your life.
Enjoy!