Yes, it’s chi-chi. I spent years working as a chef. I can do chi-chi as well as anyone. Note, however, the simplicity of these recipes. Nothing is masked or hidden. The venison stands on its own, enhanced but not cloaked by the reduction; the sugar snap peas are accented by the lime juice. And the potatoes? Well, if these don’t set off your guilt meter, nothing will.
This was inspired by a visit to a restaurant in Sarasota (which appears to be no more). The original I ordered was Bison Medallion in Raspberry Reduction, which really was memorable. I played around with it a number of times.
I’ve done this with venison and elk (both of which were more readily available in Indiana than bison), though I’ve never done it with the obvious, beef.
Venison Medallions in Raspberry Reduction
4-6 1-inch thick medallions
flour
2 T. clarified butter
1/2 pint raspberries
1/4 c. red wine
1/4 t. tarragon
salt and pepper to taste
First, run the raspberries through a food mill to extract all the juice. You will need 1/4 c. for the medallions.
Preheat oven to 500. Melt the clarified butter over high heat in a heavy pan and lightly dust the medallions on both sides with flour (you would not need to dust beef medallions). Brown on both sides, then roast in the oven for an additional 5 minutes, until medium rare. Remove.
Turn the heat up high, and add the wine and raspberry juice, then the tarragon. Stir to deglaze the pan, and let the liquid reduce to almost a thick glaze. Add salt and pepper to taste, and pour over medallions.
Serve with:
Sugar Snap Peas in Lime Butter
Yes, yes, you can use (shudder) snow peas if you really must. Shudder.
1 lb. sugar snap peas
4 T. clarified butter
juice of 1/2 lime
sugar and salt to taste
Melt the butter in a pan over medium heat. Add the sugar snap peas, stir them well to coat them in butter, then add the lime juice. Cover tightly and let simmer over low heat for five minutes. Uncover, turn up heat, and cook, stirring constantly, until nearly all the liquid is gone. Taste. You may (emphasis on may) need to add a pinch of sugar if the lime is particularly sour. Salt to taste and serve with:
Roasted Garlic and Gruyère Mashed Potatoes
We’ve been through this before. No, there are no “peels” in the mashed potatoes. Disgusting. And no, there are no lumps, which is just as disgusting. The Baby Jesus cries when you make lumpy mashed potatoes, as do my mother and both my grandmothers from beyond the grave. And by the way, when I was a kid and we still lived in a decent, God-fearing nation, potato peels went into the bucket with the rest of the hog slop, where potato peels belong.
1 head garlic
1 T. olive oil
4 large potatoes, peeled and boiled until done
1/2 lb. gruyère (or Emmenthaler), shredded
milk
First, roast the garlic. Preheat the oven to 375, cut off the very top of the head of garlic, and put it (no reason to peel it) on a piece of foil. Drizzle with the olive oil, wrap up tightly, and toss it in the oven. Bake for about an hour, until soft. When cool enough to handle, squeeze the garlic out of the peel into a mixing bowl.
When the potatoes are done, drain them and add them to the mixing bowl along with the shredded cheese. Add a couple of tablespoons of milk. Beat at high speeed until smooth, adding more milk if necessary (or desired). Serve immediately.
I know what you’re thinking. Don’t. Really, these potatoes need no butter. Seriously. But speaking of butter, since you have all that raspberry juice, why not pick up some nice rolls — or make your own — and serve them with pats of raspberry butter?
Raspberry Butter
2 sticks unsalted butter, room temperature
2 T. raspberry juice
Mix the butter and raspberry juice together, then put in the refrigerator for about twenty minutes, until the butter is more or less at room temperature softness. Put the butter in a pastry bag with a rosette tip and squeeze out little rosettes onto a piece of wax paper. Refrigerate. Remove from the refrigerator to soften about a half hour before serving.
And what to do with the rest of the raspberry juice? Well, I’m sure you can come up with a dessert idea. Or start with a quart instead of a half pint. Sweeten the leftover raspberry juice (a bit more than you would normally), pour into an ice cream freezer and freeze into a raspberry ice. Delicious, non-fattening (like I care about that), light, and an intensely flavored dessert.