While the character of Manhattan is distinctly feminine, Chicago is unabashedly masculine. Chicago has plenty of posh, but stroll down Michigan Avenue, and you’ll see as many people in Bears jerseys as fur coats. Chicago is the city of “da Bears” and Mike Ditka. Chicago is the city of steak and chop houses.

When Chicago does hoity-toity, it’s always a bit uncomfortable, as if it doesn’t fit the local culture. Pinkie-up in Chicago is a little louder, a little brasher, a little more informal than posh in more formal cities.

After a 50% hit rate on restaurants, we played our last meal here safe, and went to Morton’s of Chicago The Steakhouse on Walnut.

Morton’s is one of Chicago’s more pinkie-up steakhouses, on Wacker Drive. Wacker follows the Chicago River and wraps the downtown business district with gleaming white limestone and glass buildings clad with sparkling stainless steel art deco sconces and sculptures. Downtown is posh, but in a way that says Chicagoans are proud of their city and architecture. You won’t find even a fingerprint smudge on one of those sconces. Wacker Drive gleams.

Morton’s of Chicago has expanded, and is now Morton’s The Steakhouse. If you’re a carnivore and you want top-notch steak — and you’re willing to pay for it — this is your restaurant.

The specialty is the Chicago-style (bone-in) ribeye.

Morton’s here is, like the Chicago original, Chicago posh, and not Manhattan posh. You’ll find tables full of businessmen (and women) discussing everything from Wall Street to football. The restaurant here looks very much like the original, with dark walnut walls and a brick wine display.

We knew what to expect, and soon, the cart rolled up to the table. I don’t remember a paper menu from eating at the original (there could have been one), but the waiter rolls a cart up to the table, with all the available main courses. Lobsters. Steaks. Chops. Fish.

I was a bit amused to see the creamed spinach on the menu as one of the sides. Creamed spinach is on the menu of every steakhouse in Chicago. Apparently, when Morton’s expanded they kept it on the menu — and it’s extremely good, by the way.

As expected, the food was reliably top-notch. Be aware that they know what “rare” means at Morton’s. You won’t get medium rare. It’s not even warm inside. Order rare, and that’s exactly what you get.

Pricey, but worth it. Posh, but Chicago posh. If you live in Philadelphia, or one of the cities where there is a Morton’s, you really should check it out sometime, and discover why Chicago is the city of steaks and chops.

One Comment

  1. NYC Educator says:

    Well, in defense of feminine New York, Peter Luger’s is not half bad either. And my steak-eating companion is generally my 11-year old daughter, who doesn’t give a hoot about ambiance, but will send back anything that isn’t medium rare.

    I haven’t been to Morton’s, so I can’t compare actually. But I’d say carnivores of all persuasions can be satisfied here.

    Please don’t force me to restart the great pizza war of 06. There’s already too much carnage on the net.