Woodfire Pollo Alla Diavola with Aïoli
Because I live with a member of the National “I Only Eat Chicken Breasts” Association, I use breasts instead of halving the chicken — and I must say, it is easier. The keys to this recipe, which is tricky, are the marination, basting, and not overgrilling the chicken. I serve it with a risotto (you’ll see why below).
The chicken can be cooked ahead and served warm, so I suggest you start the risotto after the chicken is done. If you make aïoli, do it while you’re grilling the chicken. If you’re not really crazy about garlic, feel free to leave out the aïoli.
This is summer meal, so I will often get fresh peas and add them to the risotto. You can add any quick cooking fresh vegetable. Experiment. Or if you want, serve it with your favorite pasta recipe. Or if you eat weeds, serve it with a (ahem) salad.
Two more things. Do NOT try this with boneless, skinless, or skinless breasts! Also, do NOT get the idea that garlic would be good in the marinade (it probably would, if it didn’t burn on the grill).
Marinade
1/4 c. extra virgin olive oil
2 T. balsamic vinegar
6 sprigs rosemary
1/2 t. ea: kosher salt, black pepper
Crush the rosemary to release the oils and mix with the remaining ingredients. Reserve.
Prepare the chicken. First, cut off the ribs with a heavy knife — the ribs would be charred to nothing by the time the rest of the breast is done, so leaving them is a waste. Reserve the ribs (you’ll use them to enrich the stock for the risotto). Now, press down hard on the breasts to break the breast bone so they will lay more or less flat.
Put two breasts each in those gallon sealable plastic bags, then distribute the marinade among the bags, suck out the excess air, seal them, and marinate the chicken overnight. The more the chicken marinates, the better it will be.
Start the hardwood fire (hickory, mesquite, or apple, whatever hardwood you can get) in your grill. When the fire burns down, move the coals to one side of the grill (this is so you get the benefit of cooking over the fire with less chance of flames from the olive oil in the marinade). Lower your firepan as far as you can (or raise your grill).
Sprinkle both sides of the breasts with ground black pepper (that’s the “alla diavola” part), and place them skin side down on the grill, but not directly over the coals. Baste them, then close the cover.
After ten minutes, turn the chicken, then baste with the marinade. Close the cover and grill for another ten minutes. Turn the chicken, baste, cover and cook for ten minutes. The chicken should be done, but check it. Remove to a plate.
Aïoli
6 cloves garlic, minced
2 egg yolks
1/4 c. ea: extra virgin olive oil and vegetable oil
1/2 T. lemon juice
salt
This is making mayonnaise (but no, you don’t want to use store mayonnaise — it bears no resemblance to the real thing). It isn’t hard, but it does require patience — and if you use a blender, you’ll end up with bitter mayonnaise, so do it by hand, with a whisk.
Mash the garlic and put it in the bottom of a bowl or similar container (I use those plastic mixing bowls with rubber rings on the bottom — the ring keeps it from moving around on the counter). Add the yolks, and beat them until lemon yellow.
Literally drop by drop, blend in the oil. Note that I did not say beat. If you overbeat, you end up with the same bitter product you do if you use a blender. The mixture will start to thicken. You can then add the oil in a slow trickle, stirring it in constantly, until all the oil is added. If it separates, you can either start over, or beat one egg yolk in a clean bowl and add the separated mixture just as you do the oil. If you follow the directions, it shouldn’t separate.
Mix in the lemon juice and salt to taste. Refrigerate.
Risotto
2 quarts chicken stock
1.5 c. arborio (short grain) rice
1 c. fresh peas
1 large sweet onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 T. extra virgin olive oil
parmesan
roasted red peppers, chopped
salt and pepper
First, simmer the ribs for several hours in the stock to enrich it (you can do this the day before, right after you put the chicken to marinate). Discard the ribs and reserve the stock.
In a large frying pan, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and reduce the heat to medium low (you don’t want to brown them). Heat the stock to simmering on another burner.
When the onions are transparent, add the garlic and rice, and turn the heat up to medium high. Stir to completely coat the rice, then add a cup of the stock to the pan.
You don’t want the stock evaporating away immediately but you also don’t want it to simmer. The stock should bubble. Stir the rice as it absorbs the stock. When the stock is almost all cooked in, add another cup and repeat. The rice should be al dente; when it is not quite done, stir in the fresh peas, and instead of adding the stock by cups, decrease to half cups, until the rice is done. Salt and pepper to taste, stir in parmesan, and garnish with roasted red peppers.